Bonsoir.

Having been to Paris twice now--once in summer and once in winter--I think I can safely say that it is a city that shines despite the season. Seeing Paris with a good friend makes the city even more interesting. It brings to light the diversity of the city, the (mostly) harmonious coming together of people and time. By yourself, you can miss the evolution of Paris. If you're like me and prefer the winding old-world neighborhood of Montmartre to the Haussmannization of the elegant downtown, it might be easy to overlook recent transformations. When I was backpacking in 2008, I visited the Louvre and the Musee d'Orsay and overlooked the Centre Pompidou. This time, I greeted the modern, sprawling building with ambivalence as I wondered whether it was always meant to look under construction. Long ago, my appreciation for modern art surpassed my desire to see halls and halls of medieval madonnas; still, Carla's fascination with modern architecture offered me an entirely new way to see Paris.

Carla has been my close friend since middle school, and boy have we come a long way from offering nickels for friendship. (Yes, that was me.) We have also come a long way from Emporia. I can still remember how badass it felt as juniors and seniors to ride in our own cars to Carla's house for lunch, because GSHS food wasn't particularly appetizing (Chuckwagons, anyone?). Or how we would walk toward the parking lot after school to drive away. The parking lot was the place to see and be seen. What a good feeling it was at the time! The preoccupation with the future, college and a world we were eager to discover. A world we felt like we'd earned.

Since then, Carla and I have changed a lot. For instance, we don't spend nearly as much time getting ready (perhaps partly because we also have less acne to contend with). Most importantly, we are just more comfortable with ourselves. What do we have to prove to each other, to anyone else? We're here, Paris. Challenge us--we dare you.

First challenge: you might know German now--maybe a little Spanish--

but French will conquer you.

Getting around Paris and the suburbs with only a torn map and a French phrase book is tough. Sure, people may understand your butchered French, but you probably will not understand their answers. This is particularly true when people resort to clapping in rhythm to explain the bus system to you. I even convinced Carla that I knew the language, responding with my own dialect of rhythmic nods.

Second challenge: Which side is the Left Bank and which is the Right?

It is extremely important to know which side the Left Bank is on, considering that most guidebooks will simply say, "it can be found right across the bridge on the Left Bank. Basically, the Seine breaks Paris into a frowny face (I could make a comment here, but it wouldn't be original) and the Left Bank is the chin of the frown. This is where most artists and notable literary figures spent their time (again, I could comment here).

Third challenge: How can I afford to eat?

Eat bread! Pastries! Crepes! Most restaurants will be in the $15-$20 range. If you are like me, you probably can't afford to eat that way every night. Go to a supermarket and buy some French goods. There are also nice places to get French cuisine on-the-go. I got Ratatoille, stuffed tomatoes and delicious green beans this way. Note: if you get a cheesy crepe and enjoy your arteries, ask them to go light on the cheese. If you are a vegetarian, learn your French meat words. The French love meat even more than the Germans.

College reunion: Mahmoud, Lenore, Carla and me

Centre Pompidou

Inside the Centre Pompidou

Me in 2008 in Cafe des 2 Moulins, where Amelie was filmed. Carla and I ate here the first night we arrived. They serve delicious popcorn in the evening!

Musee d'Orsay: former train station until the train system was expanded. It houses 19th century masterpieces like Toulouse Lautrec, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir--everyone formerly considered not worthy for the Louvre.

The winding streets of Montmartre

Sacre Cour on the Butte Montmartre (Summer 2008)

I have a hard time deciding which church I appreciate more: The Sacre Cour or Notre Dame. Both were remarkable for their times, but having been exposed to medieval cathedrals for a while now, I have to give the Sacre Cour credit for being totally different.

Clock in the Musee d'Orsay

Notre Dame

The bridge over the Seine

Versailles

Hall of Mirrors in Versailles

Marie Antoinette's "getaway": she liked to live like the peasants. Well, if this is how the peasants in France live, I want their welfare system.

Shakespeare & Co. is an amazing bookstore across from Notre Dame on the Left Bank. This is the bookstore's second location--the first closed during WWI and reopened at this site. The first Shakespeare & Co. was frequented by Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, James Joyce and Gertrude Stein, to name a few. The post-war store was a favorite among bohemians and cultural icons, like Allen Ginsberg (perhaps explaining why there is a whole section dedicated to the Beat Generation). There are so many books, it is impossible to know where to start. The floors creak, it smells a bit dusty and you could easily spend hours searching through piles of new and used books before you find the one you want to befriend. Upstairs, there is a reading room where you can read for hours. The most exciting part for me was seeing where Jesse reunited with Celine in one of my favorite movies of all time, Before Sunset.

The Louvre

Arc de Triomphe

Carla outside of the Villa Savoye, designed by the famous architect Le Corbusier.

Paris invites chic head-tosses at every turn.

Looking for ways to deepen your friendship? Take it international! Although I have to warn you: be careful who you travel with. A trip can make or break a friendship, believe me. Lucky for us, we knew exactly what we were getting into!