German Leitkultur

Interesting read--a fascinating time to be in Europe. While he makes a lot of good (and I believe, accurate) points, I don't really agree with his interpretation of the Stuttgart 21 protests. Rather than seeing them as anti-progress, I see them as a sort of citizen's arrest and holding government accountable.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/29/opinion/29Habermas.html?_r=1&hp

Vegetarianism in Bratland

Perhaps my decision to become a vegetarian before coming to Germany was not well-timed, as Germans and Americans alike have told me. After all, this is the country of Bratwurst, Knockwurst, Leberwurst, Blutwurst, Rinderfleisch, Schnitzel, Sauerbraten and Mettbrötchen.

Some of these delicacies--namely, Blutwurst and Mettbrötchen--would be taboo in the States. Blutwurst is "blood sausage." It has such a high concentration of blood, it's more like a spread than a meat. Drooling yet?

You will find many people enjoying a filling Mettbrötchen on the square or in the market as a snack or quick lunch. Imagine ground beef. Raw. On a roll. With onions! yummy. Wanting to have the full German experience while in Frankfurt last year, I hesitantly ate one of these cold, texture-rich sandwiches. When I asked if there was harmful bacteria in it, I was told, "not enough to make you sick." Hmm.

Since then, I've realized that there are countless reasons why I am better fit to be a vegetarian than a meat-eater. There are ethical reasons, environmental reasons and health reasons for it; so many reasons, in fact, that I can't go into them now. I have always wanted to make the plunge. I've been teetering for too long. I have been a vegetarian since early July, and I'm not looking back.

This decision has not affected life here in Germany. Yes, sometimes the smell of Bratwurst in the market square does tempt me--but not enough to abandon my principles. It's easy to forget that factory farming exists in Europe, when you see these old-world, mom n' pop butcher stores. And while there is definitely more such stores here than in the States, you must make a conscious effort to choose this meat over the discount meat in Aldi. A lot of people aren't willing to make that sacrifice. Also, McDonald's is actually kind of chic here. Try putting "McDonald's" and "ethical" in the same sentence. It's not even as good as the German imbisses and bakeries. Yet, every time I walk by the McDonald's at the Martinstor, it's packed. I don't get it.

It can be hard to eat at traditional German restaurants, but it's not impossible. I would say that it's just as hard to eat at a German restaurant as it is at a southern, homestyle restaurant. I'm reminded of the night before I left for Germany when I ate at Cracker Barrel with my parents. I ordered the vegetable soup with an egg and a piece of cornbread. "We use beef broth in the vegetable soup," our server said, " and animal fat for the biscuits." Not wanting to be a cranky customer, I ate them anyway. I shouldn't have told him I was a vegetarian. On the other hand, they should offer more vegetarian options--what, with all of the Canadian and yankee travelers...

So, I've decided to make a list of German dishes fit for vegetarians (sorry, vegans):

1. Käsespätzle. Basically, German macaroni and cheese--but with eggy noodles and carmelized onions on top.

2. Lentil soup. I've made this several times myself, and it usually feeds me for days. I like to put lots of vegetables in it and eat it with a crusty piece of bread. Potato soup and pumpkin soup are also quite popular.

3. Flammkuchen. Flammkuchen is the German answer to pizza. It has a thin crust a white sauce instead of a tomato sauce. Lots of vegetarian options here, and pretty much every restaurant offers it.

4. Aufläufe. Think casseroles, but creamier. Usually baked with rice or pasta (my favorite includes gnocchi), cheese, cream sauce and vegetables of your choosing. Of course, you can also add meat, if you are a heartless animal-hater (joking. sorta.).

In Freiburg, there are plenty of Asian and Italian restaurants to keep vegetarians satisfied. Even Döner stands offer meatless kebabs for vegetarians (or for people who don't like to see their dinner scraped off a spinning tower of lamb meat).

Of course, meatless German staples include potato salad, cabbage and sauerkraut. The outdoor markets also offer a lot of local, fresh produce and fruit. The bread and pastries are also to die for.

Guten Appetit!

Day in the Seepark

The weather in Freiburg is freaky--almost like the weather in Virginia. From what I've heard, most of Germany right now has been experiencing dreary fall conditions for a while now. And yes, deep down I know that Freiburg weather will not always be so lovely. November is supposedly downright depressing--far from the sunny, golden days of jumping in piles of leaves and taking long strolls in sweatshirts. But yesterday in Freiburg, it was over 70 degrees. Not knowing how long I'd be so meteorologically blessed, I couldn't let such a day pass me by--even after having gone to the late show of Eat Pray Love and spending hours afterwards reading blogs and talking to Evan. I only wish we'd seen Eat Pray Love during the day, so that I could have enjoyed the satisfaction of walking out of a theater during a cheesy and underwhelming film, only to find a beautiful day worthy of the park.

The Gymnasium where I work is on the edge of such a park, called the Seepark. For some reason, I hadn't explored it until two young teachers showed it to me last week. There's a big lake with boats and lots of turtles, as well as chestnut trees and a Japanese Garden. I brought my journal and my camera along, just in case the creative spirit moved me. It was a good move.

Although it was warm enough to wear flip flops, I recognized signs of autumn for the first time. The leaves have started to turn and fall, making me long for the leaf-covered brick pathways at William and Mary. Oh, how I'll miss cider, Halloween and Williamsburg in the fall...

There was also a delightful old man, who confused me for a married woman. After learning otherwise, he leaned in for a kiss...

Instead, we compromised with a picture.

Japanese Garden

See y'all soon.

Unterwegs, with Guns

I have only just realized how little I have actually said about my school and my position here. My previous posts give the impression that I am simply bumming around Europe like a pretentious college graduate who pretends to know something about good cheese and wine. And photography. And that insipid platitude about finding yourself. Dear friends, the moment I utter those words, please boycott this blog. The truth is, I have a pretty good idea of who I am. I'm learning more every day and I continue to surprise myself (and bore myself, for that matter), but for the most part, I know what I want in my life.

I am working at a Gymnasium as an English teaching assistant, also known as Little American Underfoot. That's how I felt at first, anyway. My first week was about awkwardly watching classes from my little corner, smiling at children with curious, staring heads cocked to the side like my dog Luke when he watches TV. I struggled for a spot at a table in the teacher's lounge and read my book as "colleagues" raced passed me with arms full of books and notebooks. To make matters worse, the school is under renovation, so the classes didn't have set rooms and there was no plan for me. Basically, I sat there, obediently, waiting for my master to take me for a walk.

With the second week came questions and answers, usually preluded by "Sprechen Sie deutsch?" ("do you speak German?"), to which I would reply: "Nein, ich spreche kein Wort deutsch" ("No, I don't speak a word of German"). I asked the kids to give me their impressions of America. Do kids wear uniforms? Do you like McDonald's or Burger King? and from the older kids, What do I think about Obama? What do Americans think of Germans? Needless to say, some questions were harder than others--but I've led a few really excellent discussions and the kids really seem to be engaged. For the most part, it's exactly what I'd hoped for.

Of course, there's been the occasional misunderstanding. It's only natural when you're a newbie, or so most Hollywood movies tell me. It's endearing, even. But my problem is that I'm so eager to please. A miscommunication is automatically my fault, my failure to understand. Forgive me, I am just the lowly TA, I know not what I do. Then, after a long walk home, I'll cut myself a break and pledge to not react as a victim. I'm capable and competent, and I'll teach these kids something yet.

I love helping students. I love when they call my name to ask for the right word or inquire about the United States. I love to watch the wheels turning in their heads as they put the pieces together. I love their enthusiasm. I also enjoy crushing stereotypes about my country.

-"How many guns do you think my family has?"

-"How many people are in your family?"

-"Four."

-"Then your family must have four guns."

-"Would you believe that my family actually owns zero guns. zip. zilch. keine."

-"...interesting."

Yes, this is just one example. Gun rights in the US is a popular topic and makes for a good discussion. So good, in fact, that I was requested for a second appearance on Wednesday. The textbook introduces the subject with three pictures of "typical" Americans with their guns. The first picture shows a family in their front living room, a smiling mother and father each with their own gun, a daughter who is oblivious on the internet, and a fluffy dog. The second picture is a scary guy with a Tshirt that reads something like "faith in government denies both history and reason." No smile on his face. The last picture is a family of four on what appears to be your average Saturday afternoon. They are barefoot in the kitchen, each with his own gun, and again--a cute dog with his tongue hanging out. Probably salivating over the sheer power in the room.

As most of you know, I am one of the last people to argue on the side of "gun rights." Guns scare me and I have never held one. I don't understand why people think a law allowing people to bring their guns into bars actually makes the place safer. Not everyone should be Clint Eastwood. But this is not the Andell's America that I grew up in. It's hard to stand there and hear these stereotypes about my homeland, but I get satisfaction by been an exception to their so-called rule. Despite the rise of the Tea Party and manipulative, money-driven cable news/entertainment, I still love my country and I am determined to help make it better.

Sorry about the tangent, especially to those who have already heard my little rant (Thanks Mom, Dad, Evan). Bottom line is: I really love my job here, and I'm excited to see what the year brings.