Thursday, April 14, 2011

Eating Locally: Nothing New in Freiburg






In America, a movement is growing to develop better eating habits. I'm not just talking about Michelle Obama's efforts to combat obesity--I'm talking more about the White House vegetable garden. More people are trying to eat locally (and organically) to support their local farmers, eat fresh foods, cut down the costs of transportation and, more simply, to understand where their food comes from. Eating locally creates choices and sometimes asks us to make small sacrifices. If it's not natural for strawberries to grow in December, opt for mandarines in your salad instead of paying for the fossil fuels used to ship them from Spain. Then, when strawberry season rolls around, you'll be excited. You won't take the juicy sweetness for granted. You'll savor every bite while supporting your neighbor.

In Germany, there is great support for small farmers. You can see evidence of this in Freiburg's Münsterplatz. Local farmers bring their crops and goods for people who prefer fresh, local crops (and have a few extra cents to spare).

Wednesdays and Saturdays are the big market days. The place is bustling with people making their way through a maze of vegetables, fruit, flowers, locally-prepared foods and handicrafts. There are also several different wurst stands, where the most popular fast food is the Freiburger Lange Rote (Long Red). It looks just like it sounds--a long, red wurst extending from a small Brötchen and often smothered in ketchup, mustard and onions. I can't deny that it smells good, but being the devoted vegetarian that I am, but the cheese, olive and dried fruit stands are ore tempting to me. When I'm short on cash, I usually opt for the Studentenfutter (student's feed), a mixture of cashews, walnuts, hazelnuts and dates.




Noemi with a Lange Rote



















Bags of tea




"Aladdin's Magic Balls": all-natural, fruity and filling







Hot chestnuts




Ye olde meat truck




Perhaps it is the cobblestone square, the old, colorful buildings or the majestic Münsterturm reaching into the sky. It is a scene that seems quaint and typically European to the American visitor, but it is not necessarily something foreign.

course, there are farmer's markets in many American cities and towns. The market in Lancaster was open two days a week and had an impressive sprawl of almost everything. I loved taking the kids there, watching them ooh and ahh over the delicious variety (and sometimes over the Amish merchants). Although I've never been, I've heard the Charlottesville, VA farmer's market is something special, considering the local food movement there and the many nearby farms, including Joel Salatin's famous Polyface Farms. In Williamsburg, VA--my home for four years--the farmer's market was held every Saturday. In 2009, it was voted the best mid-sized farmer's market in the nation and the 5th best farmer's market overall. On Saturdays not preceded by eventful Fridays, we would walk down Duke of Gloucester Street in Merchant's Square and sample creamy spreads, pumpkin bread, Greek food and cheese. Sometimes we'd even buy something--although never the bison meat, even when it was attractively sold to us as the healthiest, leanest meat there is.









Williamsburg Farmer's Market















When I have the money, I hope to live in a place with a great farmer's market where I can buy delicious things every week. Until then, I will be happy just to browse the seemingly endless culinary possibilities, letting my eyes feed on the colors and the crowds.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Kölle Alaaf!






Imagine the biggest frat party you've ever been to. Perhaps it was on Halloween? Now imagine it 1,000x bigger and filled with old people, children and countless 20somethings, and add a whole lotta candy. That's Karneval in Köln!

It's a circus, and everyone's got an act. You've got monks and nuns, leagues of pirates, plenty of cross-dressing, animals and many politically incorrect costumes (turbans? come on). What's really amazing is how quickly the mess is cleaned up. Directly after the parade, people were collecting old beer bottles for money before the street cleaners could get to them ten minutes later. Likewise, Kölners went back to work the next day.


Puts my paper mache to shame.











During the parade, mass was sparsely attended.



Katie with Lars and Siggy, our gracious hosts



The parade drew Bavarian pirates with pink poodles...



...and world leaders.



In October, I was told that Halloween wasn't the big deal in Germany that it is in the U.S.--mostly it's just an excuse to buy candy. Everyone told me, "just wait until March. Karneval will blow Halloween out of the water."

Personally though, comparing Karneval to Halloween is like comparing apples to oranges. Karneval (or Fasching, as it's called in southern Germany) is a huge celebration leading to Lent. Halloween, on the other hand, is All-Hallows-Eve--the celebration of the dead. It's full of creepy, supernatural stuff. Karneval is mostly filled with creepy old guys. It's Mardi Gras, without the beads but with lots of shenanigans and candy. The candy is decidedly better than at Halloween--whole bars of quality chocolate were thrown at me after simply shouting, "Karmelle!" I will always remember it as the time of year in which otherwise serious German adults morph into children, pushing for candy and partying in the street.



"Liebchen, vergiss mich nicht..."



Evie the Marienkäfer



Jake the sailor



Blonder version of me






Thanks to Karneval, I have a new collection of Ohrworms in my head--made even more frustrating by the strange Kölnisch dialect:

Denn wenn et Trömmelche jeht,
dann stonn mer all parat
un mer trecke durch die Stadt
un jeder hätt jesaat
Kölle Alaaf, Alaaf - Kölle Alaaf.